Vienna to Bratislava

Cycling out of Vienna was an interesting experience. I cycled at the back of the group with plenty of space and could enjoy the amazing bike path network.

We cycled through Prater Park where they were setting up for a weekend of testing ahead of the 1.59 challenge in October. Eliud Kipchoge is going to try to be the first person in history to run a marathon in under 2 hours. Just as well it’s not this weekend in 32c!

We cycled along the side of the Danube with hog roasts on the left and naked Austrians roasting on the right of the bike path. I have edited this photo of rowers on the river to crop out a couple of naked bodies...

Oh look, another apple strudel seemed to make its way into my tummy.

It was a short ride today, so Joanne and I decided to have a wander around Schloss Hof, an 18th century Hapsburg palace. The state rooms had been turned into a child friendly educational experience, bizarrely involving super market trollies in one area.

The ornamental gardens were stunning and well worth the entrance fee.

Shortly after the castle, we crossed over the Freedom Bridge into Slovakia with more reminders of the evil Iron Curtain.

The ride into Bratislava almost entirely on bike paths was just fabulous.

A short, but really fun ride today.

After a quick shower, Joanne and I headed off to find some lunch and of course a cold beer.

It is such a hot day so we just had a little tourist walk to find the iconic ‘Man at Work’ statue.

We also had to have a delicious ice cream at `Arthur’s` - it would definitely be far too hot here for Arthur the dog.

Dinner was a delicious red Thai curry at the Sky Bar, unexpected food, slow service but a great view.

Vienna

Vienna is magnificently OTT - palaces, castles and cathedrals everywhere you walk. Today’s step tally was 22,225 in 30c so not exactly a rest day, but a fabulous day exploring this beautiful city.

I started before breakfast with a walk to Schloss Belvedere, a baroque beauty in tiered gardens overlooking Vienna. 

On the way I walked past the Soviet War Memorial and Hochstrahlbrunnen fountain.

The light was stunning, the streets were quiet and it was a beautiful walk.

I went back to the hotel for a huge breakfast and then had a little lie down in my nest bed.  Two hours of deep sleep later... off for more walkies. 

I followed the Lonely Planet Best Walks - ‘Essential Vienna’ and ‘Living History’ with a few deviations here and there so I will now attempt to put the photos in chronological order (ish).

This is Karlskirche in the corner of Resselpark, lots of twiddly bits.

The Hofburg complex is full of magnificent museums and attractions including the Spanish Riding School and these offices of the Austrian President.

The numbers of tourists were building and my plan to have coffee and cake at the famous Cafe Central was defeated by the queue, so I took a photo of the queue, as you do. Probably not the same as when Trotsky went there to play chess.

Next stop on the tourist trail was Peterskirche and then Stephansdom, a huge gothic masterpiece which unfortunately but no doubt essentially is being renovated, so not easy to appreciate with the sound of drills and just too many people inside.

Onto the ‘Living History’ walk and I was a much happier bunny. The Hoher Markt is Vienna’s oldest square and home to the Ankeruhr clock.

In total contrast to all the show off buildings, Ruprechtskirche is Vienna’s oldest church and tucked away from the main tourist trail.

The Monument to the Victims of Fascism is located on the site of the former Gestapo HQ, it’s interesting how much less attention is given to this element of history in Vienna compared to Berlin.

The stand out highlight of my day was Dominikaner-kirche, Vienna’s oldest baroque church which I had all to myself, a thought provoking and moving moment in the middle of a bustling city.

The two last essentials on my one day in Vienna were the State Opera House and a suitably huge ice cream.

Hlohovec to Vienna

Another boiling hot day, another beautiful pedal through gorgeous countryside, but obviously one last castle before we left the Czech Republic. This one is Valtice, designed as the seat of the ruling Princes of Lichtenstein in the 18th century and confiscated by the Czechoslovak government after WW2.

Austria was looking very Austrian..

This meant I had to have Apfelstrudel at the coffee break but, yummy though it was, I’m ashamed to admit it defeated me.

The ride was predominantly on beautiful cycle paths, initially through vineyards and then fields of sunflowers and squash/melon (not entirely sure what they are!)

Sadly the sunflowers are no longer in full flower but when my chain came off for the second time today, I took a close up of a huge flower before attempting to wrestle the chain back on and failing miserably. It was wedged against the spokes and Peter and Jim very kindly helped me. The knackered chain on my rental bike could do with a good clean so Peter and I were covered with black muck, including all over my favourite white top - I was not impressed.

It was then getting uncomfortably hot, so I had a quick lunch and set off on the bike trails again towards Vienna.

The graffiti artists have been busy, as in Berlin. Joanne spotted a very appropriate Berlin to Budapest daubing..

It was good fun navigating and negotiating my way through the city. The hotel is in the museum district so a great location for walkies tomorrow. Even better, the receptionist gave us a glass of bubbles when we arrived, ignoring the sweaty disgustingness of cyclists who have pedalled nearly 70 miles in the heat.

After a lovely long shower, I went for a walk to get some euros before Boris bankrupts our apparently now totalitarian country. The heat is brewing into a thunderstorm so only one thing to do...